There is a very large class of people that own 65/66 Mustangs that, as far as I can tell, anyway, have been, for the most part, ignored entirely. They don't really want that 100 pt. show car that is so nice and was soooo expensive that they're afraid to drive it, they also don't want to make their car capable of achieving warp factor three. They just want this car that they dearly love to be able to cruise around smoothly and reliably, without having it dump them out on the side of the road or have it start making weird noises or belching out big clouds of funky-smelling smoke. And I think, truth be told, that this is by far the largest class of Mustang owners. They take their car to some technician when what they actually need is a mechanic, and this, frequently, does not work out very well at all for the owner. They don't want to re-engineer the entire car, they just want someone to fix what broke. These are the people that I am trying help out with this blog. Some problems require a little bit of back and forth, as in, "Try this." "I tried that and it didn't change anything."
" Oh. well, you probably need to try that." " I tried that and it helped, but it still isn't quite right." "Now you need to try this...." If you go to http://www.allfordmustangs.com/ and then go to the classics forums, you will be able to do that with a pretty hefty gathering of some very knowledgeable people that also happen to be very friendly. None of that ridiculous one-upmanship, no flaming or abuse, none of that stuff. Just good, solid advice from people that know what they are talking about.

Sunday, January 9, 2011

Recreating your Mustang door tag 1965 and 1966

Many of the cars, after nearly half a century, have either lost their warranty plate (door tag) or, it has become too ratty-looking to read and looks just awful. Brand new replacement tags are available from http://www.martiauto.com/ but, you have to tell them what it's supposed to say. The warranty plate will have the VIN of your car on it, along with some codes that gave the dealerships that would be working on the cars some basic information about this particular car. The first code is body style. For a 65/66 Mustang, how that goes is

with a letter after it. Standard interior would be an A, deluxe (pony) interior would be a B, and standard interior with a front bench seat, instead of front buckets, would be a C. So, if you have a standard interior coupe, that would be 65A, a pony interior convertible would be 76B, etc..

Next would be the exterior color. I have a list of the color codes here. http://thecareandfeedingofponies.blogspot.com/2008/04/paint-codes.html What would be on your door tag would be the single-digit designation above the name of each color.

Next would be the interior trim of the car. Again, I have all of the possible interiors for these cars here.  http://thecareandfeedingofponies.blogspot.com/2008/05/65-interior-samples-and-codes.html and here http://thecareandfeedingofponies.blogspot.com/2008/05/66-interior-samples-and-codes.html In the first column there is a two or three digit designation under 'Code'. That's what would be on the door tag.

Next is the scheduled production date of your car. Ford destroyed the records for the 65/66 model cars, so, there is no way to say for certain when your car was built. However, I have amassed a pretty good data base of cars that the scheduled production date was still known from the original door tag, and, if you go here http://www.allfordmustangs.com/ go to the classics forums and ask about your cars birthday, I can ballpark it within a day or two. This is assuming that nothing goofy happened during production of your car, and it rolled off the line pretty much in sequence with other cars. It would be a good workable date for buying parts for your car, and it's a date that would make sense.

It is not possible to deduce what the D.S.O. ( District Sales Office) code for a car was if the original door tag is gone, because, as I mentioned, Ford destroyed the records, and, basically, the car could have been ordered by anyone, anywhere in the world. If you still have the tag, and are wondering what that code means, then the number designates the city or region that your car went to to be sold originally.
13_New York
17_Washington D.C. After 1/1/66
22_Charlotte N.C
24_Jacksonville FL
25_Richmond VA
26_Washington DC
27_Cinncinati  After 1/1/66
28_Louisville KY  After 1/1/66
35_Lansing MI
36_Louisville KY
37_Buffalo  After 1/1/66
38_Pittsburg After 1/1/66
42_Fargo ND
43_Rockford IL
44_Twin Cities( Minneapolis/St. Paul)
45_Davenport Iowa
52_DesMoines Iowa
53_Kansas City
55_ St. Louis
64_New Orleans
65_Oklahoma City
71_Los Angeles
72_San Jose
73_Salt Lake City
81_Ford of Canada
84_Home Office Reserve
85 American Red Cross
89_Transportation Services

Next will be the axle code, which tells you what the rear axle gear ratio is. The 9 inch rear end was not the only rear end that had an optional limited slip gear set-up. This was also available on the 8 inch rear end used in the A code and C code cars, as well as with the integral carrier used on the 6 cylinder cars. This was extremely rare on cars destined to be sold in the United States, though. One would be safe in assuming that this is not what their car came with unless the car was originally sold in Canada or Europe, and then made it's way back to America. Here are the codes for the door tag. This will be in the form of 'if the motor that your car came with was a_____ then the axle code on the door was _____
Before 9/01/64
170____________ 5
289HP (K code)__8 (3.89) or 9 (4.11)

After 9/01/64

289/4bbl/HP_______5(3.50), 8 (3.89), 9 (4.11)

And, finally, the transmission code. This is just for the 64 1/2-66 cars. There were some minor changes in the codes and options at the beginning of the 67 model year.

Automatic transmission___________6
6 cyl/three speed manual__________1
V8/three speed manual___________3
V8/four speed manual____________5

After determining what your car actually came with, this should provide you with all of the information that you need to recreate your door tag.

Monday, January 3, 2011

Mustang heater blower motor 1965 and 1966

Here is how the heater blower motor works on the 65/66 Mustangs. If you click on the diagrams, they will pop out so that you can see the entire diagram. I made them as big as I could so that they would be easier to see.

  If your car is an early 65, as in 64 1/2 with a generator, and has the center position off switch, the second drawing is how that is wired. Power comes from the fuse box to the switch, and, goes from the switch to the blower motor. If you look at the blower motor itself from under the hood, you will see three wires sticking out of it. One is red, one is orange, and the other is black. The black wire is the ground wire, and should be attached to the firewall. The other two bring power to the motor from the switch.

If your car has the off position on the switch all the way over to the driver's side, the first drawing is how your car is wired. This is a system that can be a little confusing until one realizes that it is wired backwards from the way most of the stuff in this car is wired. Most systems have power coming from the switch to the component. The heater blower motor has power coming from the component to the switch. Power comes from the fuse box and goes straight to the blower motor on the brown wire. It leaves the blower motor through the yellow wire, which plugs into the resistor on the front of the heater box. There will also be a three wire harness that plugs into the resistor which goes to the switch. You will notice that there is no ground wire in this system. The switch feeds power from one of the three wires coming into it, depending on which position the switch is in, straight into the metal of the dash. It is important that the switch be making good contact with the unpainted metal of the dash on the back side, or, the system won't work, so, if you decide to paint your dash, make sure that the switch housing is still making good contact when you reinstall it.

There was also a center position/off two speed blower available in the later 65 model cars, which, at a glance, appears to be like the 64 1/2 from inside the car. It does not have the resistor on the heater box. however, these worked like the three speed blowers. Power comes from the fuse box to the blower motor and then goes to switch, which grounds on the dash. The resistor is an integral part of the switch.