The Care and Feeding of Ponies

Hello

There is a very large class of people that own 65/66 Mustangs that, as far as I can tell, anyway, have been, for the most part, ignored entirely. They don't really want that 100 pt. show car that is so nice and was soooo expensive that they're afraid to drive it, they also don't want to make their car capable of achieving warp factor three. They just want this car that they dearly love to be able to cruise around smoothly and reliably, without having it dump them out on the side of the road or have it start making weird noises or belching out big clouds of funky-smelling smoke. And I think, truth be told, that this is by far the largest class of Mustang owners. They take their car to some technician when what they actually need is a mechanic, and this, frequently, does not work out very well at all for the owner. They don't want to re-engineer the entire car, they just want someone to fix what broke. These are the people that I am trying help out with this blog. Some problems require a little bit of back and forth, as in, "Try this." "I tried that and it didn't change anything."
" Oh. well, you probably need to try that." " I tried that and it helped, but it still isn't quite right." "Now you need to try this...." If you go to http://www.allfordmustangs.com/ and then go to the classics forums, you will be able to do that with a pretty hefty gathering of some very knowledgeable people that also happen to be very friendly. None of that ridiculous one-upmanship, no flaming or abuse, none of that stuff. Just good, solid advice from people that know what they are talking about.

Sunday, January 9, 2011

Monday, January 3, 2011

Mustang heater blower motor 1965 and 1966

Here is how the heater blower motor works on the 65/66 Mustangs. If you click on the diagrams, they will pop out so that you can see the entire diagram. I made them as big as I could so that they would be easier to see.

If your car is an early 65, as in 64 1/2 with a generator, and has the center position off switch, the second drawing is how that is wired. Power comes from the fuse box to the switch, and, goes from the switch to the blower motor. If you look at the blower motor itself from under the hood, you will see three wires sticking out of it. One is red, one is orange, and the other is black. The black wire is the ground wire, and should be attached to the firewall. The other two bring power to the motor from the switch.

If your car has the off position on the switch all the way over to the driver's side, the first drawing is how your car is wired. This is a system that can be a little confusing until one realizes that it is wired backwards from the way most of the stuff in this car is wired. Most systems have power coming from the switch to the component. The heater blower motor has power coming from the component to the switch. Power comes from the fuse box and goes straight to the blower motor on the brown wire. It leaves the blower motor through the yellow wire, which plugs into the resistor on the front of the heater box. There will also be a three wire harness that plugs into the resistor which goes to the switch. You will notice that there is no ground wire in this system. The switch feeds power from one of the three wires coming into it, depending on which position the switch is in, straight into the metal of the dash. It is important that the switch be making good contact with the unpainted metal of the dash on the back side, or, the system won't work, so, if you decide to paint your dash, make sure that the switch housing is still making good contact when you reinstall it.

There was also a center position/off two speed blower available in the later 65 model cars, which, at a glance, appears to be like the 64 1/2 from inside the car. It does not have the resistor on the heater box. however, these worked like the three speed blowers. Power comes from the fuse box to the blower motor and then goes to switch, which grounds on the dash. The resistor is an integral part of the switch.

Saturday, September 4, 2010

Ford radios and 8-track tape players

This is a page that I blatantly cut and pasted from http://www.hammar.dyndns.org/radio.htm and then reformatted slightly to have it make sense on this page. The information came from Hammar, though. They did the research and published the page, not me. It is a very useful source to help you figure out if your car has the right radio in it.

How to Identify FoMoCo Radios and 8-Track Tape Players

(Note: Though the following information is primarily geared toward mid-1960's Ford/Lincoln-Mercury radios, this coding system was employed on all Ford/L-M units from the 1961 through early 1969 model years. Bendix AM/FM radios continued employing this system through 1972.)

All original Ford sound equipment installed prior to 1969 was clearly marked with a four or five character code identifying the model year, manufacturer and intended application. Following this was a four-to-six digit serial number (for the radio -- NOT related to the VIN!)

These markings will be found as approximately 1/4" characters, stamped into the side or back of the radio chassis. Though they bear some resemblance to part numbers, they in fact have very little, as the following table reveals:

First Character: Radio Type
(BLANK) = AM

D = Underdash "Hump" Mounted*
E = Electric Retractable Antenna**
F = AM/FM
T = 8-Track Tape (Includes AM/8-Track)
TOB = AM/FM***
(*1968-69 Only)
(** Used only on some Mercury units)
(***1965-66 Thunderbird Only) Last digit of model year (BLANK) = 8-Track*

Second Character: Model Year This a single digit indicating the last digit of the model year, as 5 is 1965, 6 is 1966, etc..

Third Character: Sound Type (?)
Blank 8 track*
T = Transistor Radio
S = Stereo (8-Track or AM/8-Track)
(*1968-up)

Fourth Character: Manufacturer
B=Bendix
M = Motorola

P = Philco

Fifth Character: Model Application

C = Continental

D = Falcon

E = Comet

F = Galaxie

G = Comet

H = Hang-On Tape Player

L = Lincoln

M = Mercury (Full Size)

O = Fairlane

S = Thunderbird

T = Truck

U = Econoline Van

V = Lincoln

W = Cougar

Y = Meteor

Z = Mustang

Sixth Character: Speaker Configuration or additional info

(BLANK) = Front Only

F = Fader for Front/Rear Speaker(s)*
L = Truck**
M = Truck**
U = Econoline**
(* Used on some Continental/Thunderbird units)
(** 1968-1970 Truck Only)

A Few Examples

4TBZ = 1964-1/2 Mustang AM, by Bendix

5TMZ = 1965 Mustang AM, by Motorola

5TPZ = 1965 Mustang AM, by Philco

5TPD = 1965 Falcon AM, by Philco

6TPZ = 1966 Mustang AM, by Philco

F6TBZ = 1966 Mustang AM/FM, by Bendix

T6SMZ = 1966 Mustang AM/8-Track, by Motorola

T6SMF = 1966 Galaxie 8-Track Player, by Motorola

(Beginning in February 1966, Ford marketed this as

a dealer accessory "hang-on" player for all models.)

F7TBZ = 1967 Mustang AM/FM, by Bendix

T7SMZ = 1967 Mustang AM/8-Track, by Motorola

T7SMH/F = 1967 "Universal" Hang-On 8-Track, by Motorola

(Identical to the 1966 T6SMF/T6SMM, with the

addition of a built-in rear speaker fader control.)

Notice that this coding is not based on interchangability -- a 1965 Falcon radio will fit your 1964-1/2 to 1966 Mustang just fine. These markings merely indicate for what year and model a radio was intended.

Here http://www.hammar.dyndns.org/radiolist.htmis is a more complete listing of radios used in 1964-1/2 to 1973 Mustangs.

Notes:

The belief that 1965 Mustang AM radio dials start with a "6" while 1966 dials start with a "5" is actually a myth, stemming from the fact that in 1965, Ford used multiple Mustang AM radio suppliers (Bendix on the "Early" 1965's, Motorola or Philco for "Late" 1965 models), but fitted 1966 AM-equipped Mustangs exclusively with Philco sets. All 1965-1966 Philco radios featured dials beginning at "5", while the other makers began their scale at "6."

The Bendix 4TBZ was electronically identical to the Falcon 4TBD, but featured an updated dial free of the Conelrad marks mandated on all US-made AM radios produced since 1953. Though the Conelrad warning system was deactivated in 1963, the decision came too late for design changes to the new 1964 sets. All 1964-1/2-1966 Mustang AM radio models also featured the same chromed pot metal volume and tuning knobs, while the Falcon version used black plastic ones. Because both models were otherwise interchangable, it's possible (and even likely) that some on-hand Falcon radios were installed at dealerships -- nevertheless, the "Conelrad" design would still be technically "incorrect" in a 1964-1/2 Mustang.

Generally, from 1966 onward, factory-installed AM radios were supplied by Philco (a Ford subsidiary), AM/FM units by Bendix, and 8-track players by Motorola.

Some confusion exists regarding 1965-66 Mustang radios featuring with the word "Deluxe" on the chrome bezel. In reality, these were not Ford radios at all, and had no connection with the "Deluxe" (Pony) Interior Decor Group. These "Deluxe" radios were merely aftermarket AM units produced by Boston-based Automatic Radio Manufacturing Company. Interestingly, Automatic Radio later filed a lawsuit over Ford's 1967 switch to the use of Ford-made (and marketed) radio mounting bezels.

Although the Mustang AM/FM is normally thought of as a 1966-up item, it was actually introduced to dealers in July 1965 (as an accessory only -- it did not become available through the factory until the start of the 1966 model year).

Interestingly, the dealer advertising proudly trumpets the use of a "new, unique station selector controlled by five 180-degree turn-over buttons" -- in reality, the Mustang AM/FM used the same type of tuner button as the AM version (though in a more attractive chrome finish), and relied on a simple slide control to switch between the AM and FM bands. Other Bendix-supplied AM/FM radios did use these "turn-over" buttons -- and this "better idea" was adopted for the Mustang sets beginning in 1967.

The first AM/FM stereo radios appeared in 1968 Models - for the Mustang, they were the Bendix-made "F8TBZ". All earlier AM/FM radios are Mono, reproduced in Life-like High-Fidelity through the trusty dash speaker.

The Philco-Ford Story

Ford purchased pioneering radio manufacturer Philco on December 11, 1961, and in 1963 merged in the "Aeronutronic Ford Corporation," acquired by Ford in 1956. Philco Aeronutronic became NASA's primary communications equipment contractor for the U.S. Manned Space effort during the 1960's and early 1970's, designing and supplying control consoles for the newly constructed Manned Spacecraft Center in Houston. Other divisions of Philco-Ford built home appliances and entertainment equipment -- as well as more than a few car radios.

In 1974, likely motivated by the forced divestiture of Autolite, along with the weakness of U.S. auto sales and a general recession in the wake of the Arab Oil Embargo, Ford sold Philco's Consumer Electronics Division to GTE-Sylvania, who in 1981 resold both it and Sylvania to the Netherlands-based Phillips Consumer Electronics (a longtime Philco rival best known in the U.S. for their Norelco shaver -- sold in every other country as the "Philishave", but renamed in America thanks to Philco's skillful trademark protection).

Philco-Ford's Appliance Division was spun off to White Consolidated Industries (formerly White Westinghouse) in 1977, and purchased by Sweden's AB Electrolux in 1986.

Of the original Philco-Ford, only the Aeronutronic unit remained, producing radios from 1975-1989, first as the "Aeronutronic Ford Corporation" and then from December 1, 1976 on as "Ford Aerospace and Communications Corporation". On January 5th, 1988, the company was redesignated "Ford Aerospace Corporation", and less than two years later, on October 24th, 1990, the "Philco-Ford" era ended when Ford sold Ford Aerospace to Loral, creating "Loral Aeronutronic". Loral Aeronutronic supplied radios to Ford during the 1990's before being acquired by Lockheed Martin in 1997.

The Philco name hasn't entirely disappeared from North America, however. Until recently, the Philco name could be found on a line of budget-priced audio/video products sold through K-Mart, and the brand still graces a line of Nordyne home cooling systems. Finally, Polyconcept USA, Inc, now markets several "retro"-styled "Philco" turntables, under license from Philips Electronics North America Corporation.

Sunday, May 23, 2010

How to distinguish a factory GT from a non-GT

This is a question that seems to come up on a fairly regular basis. I haven't gotten around to writing anything about this because a nice man named Steve Schwartz at Mustang Dreams asked me to help him out while he wrote something about this, and he did a very good job with the subject. But, it can't hurt to have the information in as many places as possible, so, here goes.

The GT package on a 65/66 Mustang included :
Front disc (non-power) brakes
Dual exhaust with the exhaust trumpets exiting through the rear valence, not underneath it

Special handling package: front sway bar measuring 13/16 in diameter, instead of the standard 11/16,
higher rating front coil springs and rear leaf springs,

heavy duty front and rear shocks:
64 1/2-65 front shocks were the C4ZF-18045-E
66 front shocks were the C5ZF-18045-B
64 1/2-66 rear shocks were the C4ZF-18080-A, -B, or -C

Quicker steering box gear ratio of 16:1 instead of the standard 19.9:1. The manual steering cars will have the HCC-AX tag, and the power steering cars will have the HCC-AW tag. All power steering cars, not just the GTs, have the steering gear box tag of HCC-AW, so, on a power steering car, this tells you nothing.

Rocker molding and quarter ornament delete. The GTs had the no rocker molding or quarter ornament because they had the GT stripes.

No running pony on the fenders, or the small Mustang script. They had the GT fender badge and the Mustang script down lower in individual letters.

GT gas cap on the 66s, standard gas cap on the 65s

Fog lights

The factory GTs, since they had the dual exhaust exiting through the rear valence, did not have the rear bumperettes, or any of the attaching brackets for those. They also have reinforcement plates inside the driver's side rear frame rails for the driver's side exhaust hangers, which a single exhaust car did not have.

The only 65/66 Mustangs that came with the GT package were 'A' code or 'K' codes. There were no 6 cylinder cars or cars that came with a 2bbl carb that also came with the GT package.

The GT package was not available for purchase until mid April of 65, and consequently, any car with a scheduled production date before February of 65 definitely did not come with the GT package. Sometimes, people will have a new door tag made with an unreliable scheduled production date on it, but, the sequential production number of the car in the VIN, the last six digits, are not something that a person could alter without committing a felony. So, you can generally trust that a lot more.

On a Dearborn built 65 Mustang, it would have to have the last six digits of the VIN be a number higher than 620,000.
On a San Jose built 65 Mustang, it would be a number higher than 180,000.
On a Metuchan built 65 Mustang, it would be difficult to argue that the production number was too low, because that plant started building Mustangs at about the same time that Ford started building Mustangs with the GT package. It was a little bit before, but not by much.

Here is the address of that article by Mr. Schwartz that I mentioned, which has pictures and stuff.
http://www.mustangdreams.com/Verify-1965-1966-Mustang-GT.htm

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Casting Numbers/ Part Numbers

There always seems to be a little confusion concerning what these numbers mean, and, what the difference is between them. They are, after all, very similar. We'll start with the casting numbers. This is the number which is actually on the part itself. Some have it cast into the part, others have it stamped into the metal of the part, others, like wiring harnesses, have it ink or paint stamped on the part, and some don't have it physically present on the part at all.

Here's how that works. The first digit will be a letter which signifies which decade the part is from. 'A' is the forties, 'B' is the fifties, 'C' is the sixties, etc... The second digit will be a number, which indicates which year of the decade the part is from. So, if the first two digits are C1, this is 1961, D4 is 1974, B9 is 1959, and so on.

The third digit will be a letter, unless it's a part originally intended for something that didn't go into production until after 1970. Then, it could also be a single-digit number, but, not for a Mustang. This tells you which car line the part was originally designed for. This is just what it was originally intended for. They did not use car-line specific part numbers for the same part that was used in several different vehicles. A 66 model 289 hipo engine block will have the casting number of C5AE-6015-E on the side of it. This does not mean that the motor came out of a 65 Galaxie and was put in the Mustang by someone. On the small block V8s, the official "Original Intention" was for the Fairlanes on the 221/260s. That's why the early blocks have an O for the third digit, even though they were also using that motor in other cars, as well. That's why you see some blocks with an A for the third digit, like the 65/66 6-bolt K code motor. That particular variation was designed to be put in the full sized cars, but, was also used in Fairlanes, Mustangs and Falcons. The short version of this explaination is that the third digit tells you what the original drawings had written on the bottom of the page, but, the same part might be, and frequently was, used in several different car lines.But, what those digits actually mean is,

A---Full-sized Ford built after 1957

B---Bronco 70-73, Maverick 75-77, and Fairmont 78-83

D--- Falcon 60-69, Maverick 70-74, Granada 75-82, and, LTD 83-->

G---Comet 61-67 and Montego 68-76

H---Heavy truck 62-82

L---Lincoln 58-60, Lincoln Mark something 61-->

M---Mercury

O---Fairlane 62-68, Torino 69-76, LTD II 77-79

P---Autolite or Motorcraft 62-->

R--- Rotunda 62-69, Ford of Europe imports 70-->

S--- T-Bird

T--- Various trucks and Broncos

U--Econoline van

V---Lincoln Continental

W--- Cougar 66-72, Bobcat 75-80

Y--- Canadian Mercury Meteor 62-73

Z--- Mustang, Mustang II

The fourth digit is telling you what sort of part it is in a very general way.

A-- light truck part

B--Body or electrical component

C--Chassis

E-- Engine/powertrain

F--Electrical/ fuel system

P--Transmission/ axle

R-- Transmission/axle

S-- Truck Engineering

W-- Transmission/axle

X-- Muscle parts

Y Lincoln/ Mercury replacement parts

Z--Ford replacement parts

The first four digits will be followed by a hyphen, and then there will be a string of numbers, some having a letter thrown in just for fun, and then another hyphen. The stuff between the hyphens is what's called a group number. This tells you what the part is. 6015 between the hyphens means that this is an engine block. This might seem a pretty trivial bit of information to the person that is looking at the engine block, since they're looking right at it, but, to the people ordering the parts from the plant making them, which also makes a bunch of other stuff, it is very useful. On many parts, the casting number will not include the group number, because the person looking at the the number on the part would know up front that they have a carburetor in their hand. There's no need to stamp the 9510 on the carb just to make sure that the person with the gasoline dripping into his hand realizes that this is not a front bumper, but, a carburetor. The engineering number will have this, as will the replacement part number, though. The person at the warehouse processing the order has no idea what it is that I need.

After The 4-digit prefix, the group number, and, the second hyphen, there will be a letter. This letter indicates the design change level. That means that they started with a part, say, C5ZE-9600-A, which would be a breather assembly. They then change the design to include a fitting sticking out of the side of it. It becomes C5ZE-9600-B, they change the design again to put a longer, stiffer spring on the snorkel flap. It is now C5ZE-9600-C, and so on. This is purely for the sake of example, and are not actual design changes that are represented by these specific numbers. Let's say, for example, that I am needing a rebuild kit for my 2bbl carburetor, but, I am not sure if it's the original carburetor for my car, and, the I.D. tag for this carb has vanished in the haze long ago. I look at the driver's side of the carb, and, lo and behold, there is something stamped there on the base, near the front, and it says 6 D F. Clearly, this is not the entire part number, so, I will need to start filling in the blanks. I can tell that this carb is an Autolite 2100 from looking at it, so, it was built sometime in the sixties. That gives me C6 D F. I also know that, since this is a carburetor, the fourth digit will be an F, so, I now have C6DF F. Again, since this is a carburetor, the group number will be 9510, so, that gives me C6DF-9510-F, and, that is the complete part number. If my car happens to be a 66 model Mustang that came with a C4 automatic transmission and the thermactor system, this is the correct carburetor for that. The replacement part numbers and the engineering numbers will have the entire number, while, the casting number will frequently leave out the stuff that you can easily deduce by looking at the part itself.

Monday, November 23, 2009

Finding an electrical draw

If you find that your car's battery dies in a day or two when you don't drive the car, it could be that you have an electrical draw somewhere that is draining the battery. First, you would want to find out if this is actually what's happening. Start by charging the battery, and, with the positive battery cable connected and the negative battery cable disconnected, and take a volt meter and connect the positive probe of the volt meter to the negative battery cable and hook the negative probe of the volt meter to the negative battery post. With the doors of the car closed and the key in the 'off' position, the volt meter should read zero like that. If it it does indeed show zero like that, then you do not have a draw, and the problem is going to be the battery itself. If the meter does show voltage like that, something is pulling power when it's not supposed to. Fortunately, the list of suspects on a 65/66 Mustang is very short. You have the horns, the headlight switch, the emergency flasher/ cigarette lighter circuit, the ignition switch, and, if you have a convertible with a power top, the top switch. Also, the charging system has a wire that feeds into the hot side of the starter solenoid, so that, when the car is running, everything electrical is running off of the alternator/ generator instead of the battery, and, the ammeter gauge/ charge indicator light has a wire attached to this same post on the starter solenoid.

None of this stuff is on a fuse in the fuse box, except for the emergency flashers, so, don't start pulling fuses one at a time and checking to see if the draw went away. Unless the problem is with the emergency flashers/ cigarette lighter circuit, which it almost never is, the problem won't go away like that. Start by unplugging the alternator harness from the headlight harness and see if the draw went away. It's the three-prong connector down near the frame rail, kind of underneath where the battery is. If the draw went away, plug that back in and unplug the connector from the side of the voltage regulator. If the draw reappears, the problem is the alternator. Check and see if the black wire with the yellow stripe attached to the 'bat' post on the back of the alternator is shorting itself out on the alternator case somehow and, if yes, fix that. If it isn't, then you need a new alternator. If the draw does not reappear with the alternator harness plugged in and the voltage regulator unplugged, you need a new voltage regulator.

If the draw is still there when you unplug the alternator harness, then the problem is with one of the other systems mentioned, and, you will probably need to remove the instrument cluster to have a look back there. If you look in the april of 08 section here, there's a post on how to do that. It isn't difficult at all. Before you do that, though, go ahead and pull the emergency flasher fuse and see if the draw goes away. If no, go ahead and snatch the instrument cluster out. If yes, put the fuse back in and unplug the wire from the back of the cigarette lighter and see if the draw goes away. If yes, replace the lighter.

Once you have the instrument cluster out, disconnect the headlight switch connector from the headlight switch and check to see if the draw went away. If no, the problem is not with the lights or the horns, since the horn circuit gets it's power from the headlight switch. That leaves the ignition switch. You can check the wire that is hooked to the + or 'bat' post on the coil with the volt meter to see if it shows power with the key in the off position, but, if it does, you need to replace the ignition switch and you have to remove the instrument cluster to do that, so, it wasn't needless work removing the instrument cluster.

If the problem went away when you unplugged the headlight switch connector, plug the connector back in, and unplug the turn signal switch at the base of the steering column. If the draw goes away, the problem is something in the turn signal switch, most likely the horns. If the draw does not go away, unplug the connector behind the dash, kind of up above the fuse box , that the taillight harness plugs into. If the draw does not go away, the problem pretty has to be up front with the headlights or front parking lights/ turn signal lights. It isn't complicated, it's just a question of picking a place to start and working your way through until you find the problem. You don't want to fall into the trap that ensnares many, which is assuming that the problem is with component A and replacing it, only to discover that the problem is still there, so you then replace component B, C, D, etc... Don't start just throwing new parts at the car until the problem disappears. Take a minute to figure out what's actually wrong, and then fix that. You'll be much happier with this way of doing things in the long run.

Sunday, October 11, 2009

64 1/2-only stuff in the underhood area

First, Let me start by saying that there are no Mustangs with 64 year model V.I.N.s. The first Mustang, 5F08F100001, was titled as a 1965 model car. All of these cars that we refer to as 64 1/2s are just really, really early 65 model cars according to the V.I.N. However, they have characteristics and features that Ford dropped at the end of the 64 model year. There were no alternator charging systems on 64 model Fords, and there were no generator charging systems on 65 model Fords, with the exception of the early production Mustangs, which they began building in early March of 64, instead of in July of 64, like the other 65 model cars. This is a pretty obvious difference between a 64 1/2 and a 65. This first picture is the generator of a 64 1/2 Mustang. It has this size-huge cast iron upper bracket, instead of the stamped steel bracket of an alternator car. This one is kind of hard to miss. Many of these cars, like mine, for example, have been changed over to alternators, though, so the absence of this generator and bracket does not mean that the car didn't originally come with it. I still have all of the generator stuff, in case I want to go back to trailered concours perfect, but, since it's my primary means of transportation, I have it on an alternator.

On the V8 cars, the 64 1/2s have what's called a five-bolt block, while the 65s have a six-bolt block. This is referring to the number of bolts that hold the bell housing onto the back side of the engine block. Here is a picture of a five-bolt bell housing. The arrows show where the bolts that attach it to the block are, and yes, you can see this with the motor and transmission still in the car, so, all that you have to do is open the hood, and then count them. There will also be some other bolts there, like the two that hold the starter on, the inspection plate at the bottom of the bell housing, but, the bolts that hold the bell housing to the block are pointing in the opposite direction of the others, so, it would be very difficult to get them mixed up.

On a 64 1/2, the brake light switch is on the front of the master cylinder, like the one in the picture, instead of hanging on the brake pedal inside the car, like a 65. You will also notice that the engine gauge wire harness has a couple of extra wires coming out of the firewall for the brake lights, so, the 64 1/2s also have a different engine gauge harness to accomodate the brake light switch.

This is a picture of the front passenger side of the radiator core support in front of the battery. You will notice those three slots in it that look like gills. The alternator cars don't have that. They just have those four slots over to the passenger side of the gills.

The flap indicated by the arrows hangs down a lot further on the 64 1/2s than it does on a 65. On the 65s, it only comes down about half that far. From the factory, this part is painted black, as is the upper area of the piece that this flap is a part of from the front edge of the cowl lip forward. This one is painted body color just so it stands out better. Again, if I ever go back to trailered concours perfect, I'll also fix that.

Many of the 64 1/2s had a cast iron crankshaft and water pump pulley set-up. Here they are, sitting beside the generator bracket. The one in the middle is the water pump pulley and the one on the left is the crankshaft pulley.

The generator cars had these great big horns mounted down on the strut rod brackets, instead of the smaller horns on the radiator core support that an alternator car had. There was also a horn relay mounted above the voltage regulator on the generator cars, instead of a wire coming straight out of the turn signal switch and going directly to the driver's side horn, then over to the passenger side horn, like the alternator cars.

This is kind of a small thing, but, it was a 'better idea' from Ford. You will notice in the picture that negative battery cable is attached to the inner fender area with a clip and a sheet metal screw. The generator cars had this, the alternator cars didn't. Even if the clip isn't there, there should be a hole in the car for the screw.

More to come later. (Insert smiley face here.)